Set them out in a list and something becomes obvious that you would never
notice one at a time.
Devil's Backbone. Devil's Gate. Devil's Gulch. Devil's Kettle. Devil's Kitchen.
Devil's Punchbowl. Devil's Sinkhole. Devil's Millhopper. Devil's Icebox.
Devil's Honeycomb. Devil's Cornfield. Devil's Golf Course. Devil's Washbowl.
Devil's Hopyard.
Thirty-seven of them, in twenty-two states, and not one is a place where
anything terrible is recorded as having happened.
Look at what they actually are
A backbone is a ridge too steep to take a wagon over. A gate is a gap in
a cliff that you must go through because there is no way round. A gulch is a
ravine. A kettle, a punchbowl, a millhopper, a sinkhole — all
holes in the ground that water disappears into and does not obviously come out
of. An icebox is a cave mouth that breathes cold air in July.
The Devil's Cornfield in Death Valley is a plain of arrowweed clumps
standing in rows, looking exactly like a crop, in a place where nothing can be
grown. The Devil's Golf Course, a few miles away, is rock salt eroded into
blades sharp enough to cut through boot leather — the name comes from a 1934
guidebook line about only the devil being able to play golf on it.
The Devil's Kettle in Minnesota is a pothole that swallows half a river.
Where the water went was genuinely unknown for decades; it was only resolved
recently, and the answer was unglamorous — it rejoins the river downstream.
None of these is a haunting. Every one is a piece of terrain that beat somebody.
The naming is an accounting
Settlers named land by what it was worth to them. Good ground got a family name
or a hopeful one — Fair Valley, Richland, Prospect. Ground that could not be
ploughed, crossed, drained or understood got handed to the Devil, because that
is who you blame for a landscape that appears designed to waste your time.
It is a practical vocabulary wearing a theological coat. Calling a ravine the
Devil's Gulch tells the next traveller exactly what they need to know about
that ravine.
And once a name like that is on a map it does not come off. Places that are
now state parks, tourist attractions and national monuments carry a
seventeenth- and eighteenth-century verdict on their usefulness, delivered by
people who wanted to farm them.
Which the Devil's Tower proves twice
Wyoming's is the famous one — a monolith of columnar rock, the first national
monument, and by most accounts a mistranslation. The Lakota and other nations
have their own names for it, several of which refer to bears. A US Army
interpreter in 1875 is generally blamed for turning one of them into "Bad God's
Tower", and the map did the rest.
Then there is the other Devil's Tower, in Alpine, New Jersey: a water tower
built by a millionaire in the 1920s, with a legend attached about a wife who
fell from it. That one is a folk story in the ordinary sense, invented about a
building, after the fact.
Two objects, one name, arrived at from opposite directions. The Wyoming one was
named by a bureaucratic error about a sacred site. The New Jersey one was named
by people telling each other a story in the dark.
The list is full of both, and you cannot tell which is which without looking.